“This is the gate of heaven!”
(Genesis, 28:17): such were the words of awe and wonder that, on waking from
his dream, Jacob used to recount how he experienced the nearness of the Lord
and how he had contemplated the “house of God”. The same phrase can also be
read, sculpted in marble, on the threshold of the ‘holy portal’ of San Miniato
al Monte. It indicates how the beauty of this 1000-year old basilica is the
mark of God’s presence in our own history as well, at the same time being the
opening and way towards His blessing for the city lying at the foot of the
hill.
Considering that you can see
the marble of the church as you look into the hills of Florence are immediately
intrigued to find out what it is. The whole church is a symbolism of the
typical Florentine Romanesque style of the 11th-13th
century. The façade of the church is covered in two-tone green and white marble
with an amazing mosaic of depicting Christ enthroned between the Virgin Mary
and San Miniato.
Inside of the church is completely made of marble! Every
step you take will be a step into the history of the 13th
century and the geometrical arabesque style of bestiaries. The mosaic inside of
the church shows the King of Armenia and the Mother of God handing his crown to
the Lord of Everything. This church also brings to life the Iron Gate that
holds the remains of St. Miniato himself. The church is an absolute wonder and
if the view from the Piazza does not grab you then the Basilica façade
definitely will. The basilica captures the essence of the 13th
century and walking into it will make you feel as though you are right there
living in the time period.
The
historical account of the church is quite fascinating as it goes back to 783AD,
where it was a place of pure worship. Though this beautiful marble structure
didn’t have all the glamour as it does today. It was neglected and was
eventually left to ruin until about 1018AD the Florentine bishop Ildebrando
decided to construct a new and grandiose that now adorns the hill. The church
was dedicated to San Miniato who was beheaded on the banks of the Arno around
250AD, under the strict orders of the Roman Emperor Decius. His remains are
buried under the basilica, and some are even on display in the crypt that rest
in the third section of the church. As the Renaissance took off, the basilica
became a heaven of masterpieces that still decorate the floors, walls and
ceiling of the entire basilica. As one enters into this haven, they realize it
is a church dedicated to the celebration of death and its beauty. The basilica
portal signifies heaven on earth for Florence, and has stood true for
centuries. The basilica isn’t alone, as it sits next to the majestic Poggi
Terrace.
Created as part of major restructuring of the city wall in
1869, Poggi’s sumptuous terrace is typically 19th
century. Poggi designed a monument base dedicated to Michelangelo, where copies
of Michelangelo’s works, including the David and Medici chapel sculptures from
San Lorenzo would be displayed. When the terrace was finished, Poggi’s project
was not realized as it was intended. The building that was to be a museum is
now a restaurant. Today, the square is filled with cars and tourist, as a
parking lot was recently built. When you reach the top of your climb finding
yourself facing Piazza Michelangelo, you may wonder if you are in the right
place. I thought this was a famous sight, but all I saw was a parking lot, some
street vendors and a replicated David. I was a tad disappointed, but all I had
to do was turn around and see why this terrace compliments the Basilica on the
Monte. Suddenly, I didn’t care what the square used to be because I was too
busy enjoying the breathtaking view of the entire skyline of Florence. It seems
that nothing else mattered as the beautiful city unfold before me. If you ever
stick around till the night time, you will see why the fake David loves to hang around their so much. The city is alit
with colors, and the yellow glow of Italy. Makes perfect sense why the terrace
and San Miniato Basilica have resided here so long as Florence’s gateway to
heaven.
