29 April 2010

Santa Croce

Brief History


The Church of Santa Croce was built in the year 1294 for the Franciscan order of monks. It was designed by the architect Arnolfo di Cambio (who also designed the Duomo cathedral), who later went on to work on the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio. The church was built for use by the Franciscan order of monks, an order that was highly controversial at the time because they challenged the decadence of the Catholic Church and opted to live their lives in poverty. It has been suggested that the humanistic outlook of the Franciscans was one of the inspirations for the Renaissance in Florence. The church has a colorful marble façade that is typical of many Italian churches. Santa Croce’s façade was left unfinished, though, until the tiles were added in the 1850s. On November 4, 1966 the Arno River flooded the cities of Florence and Pisa. The water level rose over fifteen feet in Piazza Santa Croce and damaged much of the inside of the church. There is now a small exhibit inside the church about the flood, and many of the works of art in the small museum on grounds have been restored.



Things to See

Santa Croce has many points of interest and is a center of national cultural pride. The church has become somewhat of an Italian version of Westminster Abbey in London; the burial site of many great and historically important Italians. Michelangelo Buonarroti, the famous artist best known for painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, is here as well as Galileo Galilei (revolutionary and controversial scientist), Nicoló Machiavelli (political commentator and author of The Prince), and Gioacchino Rossini (composer of The Barber of Seville). There is also a cenotaph, an empty tomb, dedicated to Dante Alighieri (who is alo portrayed in a statue out frong, depicted to the right).


There are also some other Italians represented here who, although they are not buried here, you might have heard of. In the old sacristy is a piece of a tunic once worn by St. Francis of Assisi, the man who created the Franciscan order of monks. Alongside the tunic is a Papal Bull (an official letter issued by the Pope) legitimizing the Franciscan order. It was the Franciscans who once lived in and used Santa Croce as their place of worship. The church also holds the relics of the Blessed Humiliana de’ Cerchi, an important religious figure. She was born in Florence in 1219 and joined the Franciscan order after becoming a widow and desiring to live the rest of her days in prayer and chastity.

In addition to important religious pieces, there is a lot of important art in the church as well, including some frescoes by both Giotto and Gaddi in the various chapels surrounding the altar. Donatello (you can see his famous version of David at the Bargello Museum) has two sculptures here Crucifix (in the chapel in the left corner when facing the altar) and Annunciation (in between Rossini and Machiavelli’s tombs) here. Sadly, there are many paintings within the church that have been badly damaged or not preserved well – a tragedy to the cultural heritage represented here. A lot of the damage is the result of a great flood that occurred here in 1966. You can still see the water mark high up on the walls and columns. The architect Brunelleschi (architect of both the dome of the Duomo and of Santo Spirito church) is also well represented here, having designed both the domed Pazzi Chapel and the beautiful second cloister. The cloister and the outdoor areas of Santa Croce are lovely spots to stroll through on a sunny day.

Also of interest inside the grounds of the church is the Santa Croce leather school, housed in the former Medici-commissioned dormitory of the monastery. The school was founded after World-War II with the aim of giving orphans of the war the opportunity to learn a trade with which they could earn a living. Leather has always been a specialty of Italians and Santa Croce had historically been a neighborhood of leatherworkers, so naturally the art of leather-making was passed down. The school is still active and anyone can sign up to be a student. Classes that are offered vary from a half-day workshop (130 euros) to a six-month course (8,000 euros). If you aren’t looking to become a student, you can still purchase some of the high quality leather goods that Florence is famous for. Handbags and jackets will set you back a few hundred euros, but wallets can be purchased for between 30 and 100 euros. Leather bracelets, change purses, and small zip bags can all be purchased for less than 15 euro and university students receive a ten percent discount!

The entrance and ticket office can be found on the left side of the church. Entrance into Santa Croce is five euro and there are no discounts for students, but entrance to just the leather school is free (there is a special entrance just for the school in the back of the church). Be sure to dress modestly (knees and shoulders covered) because the dress code is sometimes enforced. In my opinion, the cost of admission is well worth it. Santa Croce is a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture with an elegant and spacious nave. The church and the surrounding area are clearly an important cultural center of Florence. The large square outside the church hosts many wonderful Florentine events and festivals, including a wine event in the fall, a chocolate festival in winter, a neighborhood football game in June and Germanic Christmas markets in December.



Things in the Surrounding Area

There is plenty to do in the Santa Croce neighborhood other than visiting the church and square. Casa Buonarroti, the house once owned by Michelangelo and since renovated by his family, is now a museum to his life. The house itself is beautiful, and here you can find sketches and sculptures by the artist (including his earliest known work, Madonna della Scala) in addition to some artifacts from his everyday life, such as shoes and walking sticks and the original door to his house. Entrance to the house is €6.50, certainly worth it if you are a big fan of Michelangelo’s work.

The Santa Croce neighborhood has also become a popular evening hangout with students and many bars and clubs have sprung up in the area. The neighborhood is also home to the city’s main gay/lesbian hangout, Yag (Via de’ Macci 8r). But there is more than just clubs in the neighborhood. If you are interested in trying a fun Italian evening tradition, then head for a restaurant that does aperitivo. Aperitivo is an all-you-can-eat buffet with a variety of dishes ranging from finger foods and sandwiches to pastas and salads that you can eat after the purchase of a drink. Moyo (Via dei Benci 23r) and Oibo (Via dei Benci 53r) are both good spots to do an aperitivo.

If you are looking for a piece of home away from home, there are a few places that cater to Americans in the area. House of Sizzle/Red Garter (Via dei Benci 33r) is sports bar where you can keep up on the latest American football or basketball games, but you can also find Italians there watching the latest Fiorentina game. They serve decent hamburgers and snack foods and on Wednesdays have wing night and margarita specials (and yes, they have ranch dressing). You can get a student discount card that gives you happy hour prices on drinks at all times as well as a ten percent discount on food. Nearby, The Diner (Via dell’Acqua 2r) serves an excellent American breakfast with American coffee. You can also get a student discount card here that is good for ten percent off.