26 May 2014

A Prison of Art



Near the center of Florence it is rather easy to get lost in the significance of the past, with each turning corner. On any other normal route I stroll down a narrow road and imagine: Where am I 400 years ago? What am I doing? Where does my fame lie, if I had any at all? The question stimulated the desire to discover where the splendors of the past now lie. From my curiosity, the discovery of the Bargello Museum occurred.
            Settled near the center, the Bargello is now wrapped with city on all four corners; however, 400 years ago it resided on the outskirts of the town. The construction began in 1255, and was built to house first the Capitano del Popolo and later, in 1261, the 'podestà', the highest magistrate of the Florence City Council. This Palazzo del Podestà, as it was originally called, is the oldest public building in Florence. This austere crenellated building served as model for the construction of the Palazzo Vecchio. In 1574, the Medici dispensed with the function of the Podestà and housed the bargello, the police chief of Florence, in this building, hence its name. It was employed as a prison, where it saw a grim scene of executions on a daily basis in the yard until they were abolished by Grand Duke Peter Leopold in 1786, but it remained the headquarters of the Florentine police until 1859. When Leopold II, Holy Roman Emperor Peter Leopold was exiled, the makeshift Governor of Tuscany decided that the Bargello should no longer be a jail, and it then became a national museum. The Bargello opened as a national museum (Museo Nazionale del Bargello) in 1865, displaying the largest Italian collection of gothic and Renaissance sculptures (14–17th century). Knowing this brings the mind into wonderment as I sat in the courtyard thinking about all the death and grit that consumed these walls that are now adorned with fame.

            Today, the museum houses masterpieces that made Florence known for its richness hundreds of years ago by Michelangelo, such as his Bacchus, Pitti Tondo (or Madonna and Child), Brutus and David-Apollo. Its collection includes Donatello's David and St. George Tabernacle, Vincenzo Gemito's Pescatore ("fisherboy"), Jacopo Sansovino's Bacchus, Giambologna's Architectureand his Mercury and many works from the Della Robbia family. Benvenuto Cellini is represented with his bronze bust of Cosimo I. There are a few works from the Baroque period, notably Gianlorenzo Bernini's 1636-7 Bust of Costanza Bonarelli. Within a couple of hours I barely scratched the surface of all this fame. I couldn’t help be think, “What would these men think if they were alive today, and saw their works trapped in this prison?” The Bargello Museum holds not only the memories of the men who deserved death – or didn’t - in the prison, but also it mesmerizingly ensnares the Renaissance’s splendor in a prison of art.