The Heart of Bologna

If you want to enjoy a different scene then you must travel to Bologna! In Bologna you must begin your explorations at Piazza Maggiore. Piazza Maggiore is one of the biggest and oldest squares in Italy. Here, people gathered, listened to new laws being announced, and witnessed executions from the capital. This square was also one of the biggest open-air markets until the mid-1800s. There are multiple building that surround the square.

The first I would suggest to visit is Palazzo D’Accursio. The official city hall building has the Bologna native Pope Gregory XIII giving his blessings to those who pass by. Once you enter the building, you will see three courtyards: one for guests, weapons and finally for prisoners. The palazzo also holds the city council room, the Morandi Museum and the old Cardinal’s apartment.

As you leave the Palazzo D’Accursio, you will stroll by La Fontana del Nettuno. The Flemish sculptor Giambologna created this famous fountain in 1564. It was viewed as scandalous for its nudities but it blows you away with its amazing muscular detail. The sculptor is so great that another one was created and placed in Palos Verdes, California.

Finally, I would suggest walking into Basilica San Petronio. It may not be much to look at from the outside but don’t let that fool you. San Petronio Basilica was supposed to be the largest church on the Christian world but the Pope did not want a church that was any bigger than St. Peters in Rome. Once you finish exploring the vast church, please take some time to go to a café in the square. Grab an espresso and listen to the heart of Bologna.

A Prison of Art

Near the center of Florence it is rather easy to get lost in the significance of the past, with each turning corner. On any other normal route I stroll down a narrow road and imagine: Where am I 400 years ago? What am I doing? Where does my fame lie, if I had any at all? The question stimulated the desire to discover where the splendors of the past now lie. From my curiosity, the discovery of the Bargello Museum occurred.

            Settled near the center, the Bargello is now wrapped with city on all four corners; however, 400 years ago it resided on the outskirts of the town. The construction began in 1255, and was built to house first the Capitano del Popolo and later, in 1261, the 'podestà', the highest magistrate of the Florence City Council. This Palazzo del Podestà, as it was originally called, is the oldest public building in Florence. This austere crenellated building served as model for the construction of the Palazzo Vecchio. In 1574, the Medici dispensed with the function of the Podestà and housed the bargello, the police chief of Florence, in this building, hence its name. It was employed as a prison, where it saw a grim scene of executions on a daily basis in the yard until they were abolished by Grand Duke Peter Leopold in 1786, but it remained the headquarters of the Florentine police until 1859. When Leopold II, Holy Roman Emperor Peter Leopold was exiled, the makeshift Governor of Tuscany decided that the Bargello should no longer be a jail, and it then became a national museum. The Bargello opened as a national museum (Museo Nazionale del Bargello) in 1865, displaying the largest Italian collection of gothic and Renaissance sculptures (14–17th century). Knowing this brings the mind into wonderment as I sat in the courtyard thinking about all the death and grit that consumed these walls that are now adorned with fame.

            Today, the museum houses masterpieces that made Florence known for its richness hundreds of years ago by Michelangelo, such as his Bacchus, Pitti Tondo (or Madonna and Child), Brutus and David-Apollo. Its collection includes Donatello's David and St. George Tabernacle, Vincenzo Gemito's Pescatore ("fisherboy"), Jacopo Sansovino's Bacchus, Giambologna's Architectureand his Mercury and many works from the Della Robbia family. Benvenuto Cellini is represented with his bronze bust of Cosimo I. There are a few works from the Baroque period, notably Gianlorenzo Bernini's 1636-7 Bust of Costanza Bonarelli. Within a couple of hours I barely scratched the surface of all this fame. I couldn’t help be think, “What would these men think if they were alive today, and saw their works trapped in this prison?” The Bargello Museum holds not only the memories of the men who deserved death – or didn’t - in the prison, but also it mesmerizingly ensnares the Renaissance’s splendor in a prison of art.

Gateway to Heaven

“This is the gate of heaven!” (Genesis, 28:17): such were the words of awe and wonder that, on waking from his dream, Jacob used to recount how he experienced the nearness of the Lord and how he had contemplated the “house of God”. The same phrase can also be read, sculpted in marble, on the threshold of the ‘holy portal’ of San Miniato al Monte. It indicates how the beauty of this 1000-year old basilica is the mark of God’s presence in our own history as well, at the same time being the opening and way towards His blessing for the city lying at the foot of the hill.

Considering that you can see the marble of the church as you look into the hills of Florence are immediately intrigued to find out what it is. The whole church is a symbolism of the typical Florentine Romanesque style of the 11^th-13^th century. The façade of the church is covered in two-tone green and white marble with an amazing mosaic of depicting Christ enthroned between the Virgin Mary and San Miniato.

Inside of the church is completely made of marble! Every step you take will be a step into the history of the 13^th century and the geometrical arabesque style of bestiaries. The mosaic inside of the church shows the King of Armenia and the Mother of God handing his crown to the Lord of Everything. This church also brings to life the Iron Gate that holds the remains of St. Miniato himself. The church is an absolute wonder and if the view from the Piazza does not grab you then the Basilica façade definitely will. The basilica captures the essence of the 13^th century and walking into it will make you feel as though you are right there living in the time period. 

            The historical account of the church is quite fascinating as it goes back to 783AD, where it was a place of pure worship. Though this beautiful marble structure didn’t have all the glamour as it does today. It was neglected and was eventually left to ruin until about 1018AD the Florentine bishop Ildebrando decided to construct a new and grandiose that now adorns the hill. The church was dedicated to San Miniato who was beheaded on the banks of the Arno around 250AD, under the strict orders of the Roman Emperor Decius. His remains are buried under the basilica, and some are even on display in the crypt that rest in the third section of the church. As the Renaissance took off, the basilica became a heaven of masterpieces that still decorate the floors, walls and ceiling of the entire basilica. As one enters into this haven, they realize it is a church dedicated to the celebration of death and its beauty. The basilica portal signifies heaven on earth for Florence, and has stood true for centuries. The basilica isn’t alone, as it sits next to the majestic Poggi Terrace.

Created as part of major restructuring of the city wall in 1869, Poggi’s sumptuous terrace is typically 19^th century. Poggi designed a monument base dedicated to Michelangelo, where copies of Michelangelo’s works, including the David and Medici chapel sculptures from San Lorenzo would be displayed. When the terrace was finished, Poggi’s project was not realized as it was intended. The building that was to be a museum is now a restaurant. Today, the square is filled with cars and tourist, as a parking lot was recently built. When you reach the top of your climb finding yourself facing Piazza Michelangelo, you may wonder if you are in the right place. I thought this was a famous sight, but all I saw was a parking lot, some street vendors and a replicated David. I was a tad disappointed, but all I had to do was turn around and see why this terrace compliments the Basilica on the Monte. Suddenly, I didn’t care what the square used to be because I was too busy enjoying the breathtaking view of the entire skyline of Florence. It seems that nothing else mattered as the beautiful city unfold before me. If you ever stick around till the night time, you will see why the fake David loves to hang around their so much. The city is alit with colors, and the yellow glow of Italy. Makes perfect sense why the terrace and San Miniato Basilica have resided here so long as Florence’s gateway to heaven.

The Garden Strollers

The Italians are well known for being the lackadaisical type of human, and the Medici family, in their entire splendor, captured that in one single Garden. The Boboli Gardens were designed in the year 1550 for Cosimo I’s wife, and finished in the mid 18^th century. They were used mainly as the back yard of the infamous Medici family; however, Victor Emmanuel II took over the palace when Italy was united in the late 18^th century. Upon entering the palazzo I could see a great gesture of symbolism immediately to my left. The Medici’s designed the entrance into the park to be like a terrace that over looked most of Florence, but the center piece of the picture before me was the Duomo. The Medici’s had a huge hand in the pope’s wars and the battle for territory during the Renaissance, so it was appropriate to see the Church first before one strolls the lavish gardens. There is a spectator arena for chariot races as if the Romans lived in the Palace. This may seem confusing to most, but in reality it was a common desire of the rich back in the Renaissance – the desire of recreating the glory of Rome’s splendor! This splendor is rampant throughout the Palazzo, but especially in the Garden. The statues that adorn the walls and the centerpiece fountains are all of Roman Gods and Goddesses; there is even an Egyptian obelisk that sits in the center of the first plateau of the garden! Just a little history for you, the Romans were notorious for taking every bit of Egypt back to Rome, because it was their way of reclaiming the past themselves. The Medici family was only carrying on the tradition.

One has to ask when they enter the garden, “Where did these people stroll?” This entire green, lavish, perfectly molded paradise was theirs for centuries, so what happened in the gardens!! It’s hard for me to sit here and not be curious if I’m sitting where they once did under this tree that overlooks Neptune’s fountain. One single family that lived for many centuries, dominated the Italian scene lived here. How cool! These are the people we only read about and watch movies about, but to sit and walk where they once did makes me feel as if I’m strolling in their footsteps. My mind can only wonder back a few hundred years ago, transforming the bustling tourist into royal guest of one of the most famous families of all time.

If you are in Florence, make the journey here. Pay the 10-euro to get into this marvelous sanctuary of peace. It was created to emulate strength, wealth, and the ability to shape nature but above all, it was created to stimulate peace. The gardens tend to allow the wind to sing through the vegetations all around, making a symphony that drowns out the world around. Take a moment to realize the history that is around you, absorb the past and cherish what a family did centuries ago. You are standing where they once stood and you are witnessing their power all these years down the road. With that said, go take a stroll.

In The Pages of Tuscany

With 5,627,205 books, the National Central Library of Florence (Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze) is a pinnacle of knowledge. The library was founded in 1714 when scholar Antonio Magliabechi bequeathed his entire collection of books, encompassing approximately 30,000 volumes, to the city of Florence. By 1743, it was required that a copy of every work published in Tuscany be submitted to the library. Originally known as the Magliabechiana, the library was opened to the public in 1747. Its holdings were combined with those of the Biblioteca Palatina in 1861, and by 1885; the library had been renamed as the National Central Library of Florence, or the BNCF. Since 1870, the library has collected copies of all Italian publications. Since 1935, the collections have been housed in a building designed by Cesare Bazzani and V. Mazzei, located along the Arno River in the quarter of Santa Croce. Before this, they were found in various rooms belonging to the Uffizi Gallery. Unfortunately, the major flood of the Arno River in 1966 damaged nearly one-third of the library's holdings, most notably its periodicals and Palatine and Magliabechi collections. The Restoration Center was subsequently established and may be credited with saving many of these priceless artifacts. However, much work remains to be done and some items are forever lost.

If you’re a huge history buff as I am, definitely dig for the two manuscripts: The eternal and the hermit and Marriage of the Virgin, both by Giovannino de Grassi. The library is home to some of the most famous works done by the intellects of our past. Most people would find libraries dull; however, I view them differently. They are archives for our past, and if you are wondering down the cobblestoned streets of Florence then you should appreciate these archives. The reason being is that Florence has scarcely changed its face over the past 800 years, so by exploring the works of people in the past you could attempt to find where they stood, talked, lived, sat, pondered life’s mysteries! The library can lead you down a path of discovering of some of the greatest minds right here in Florence. The pages of the past sit right here all around me, and I can’t but be curious as to know what brilliance is but a finger’s length away from my mind. As any historical place around the center, the library holds tremendous significance to Florence’s past. I encourage those who may read this blog, come here, get lost and find your way around the pages of Tuscany.