Ponte Santa Trinita

Most major European cities have been built around great rivers. London has the Thames, Paris has the Seine, and Amsterdam has the Amstel. Rivers have historically been necessary for trade, travel and water supply. Florence is no different. The city spans both sides of the Arno River, which flows from the Apennines Mountains running through the middle of Italy and into the Tyrrhenian Sea at Pisa. The presence of the river, of course, makes bridges an important part of the city. The famous Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) is one of the top sights to see in Florence, but the other bridges in the city have interesting histories just like Ponte Vecchio and are just as important. Take the Ponte Vecchio’s neighbor to the west, for example: Ponte Santa Trinita.

The bridge was commissioned by Cosimo I of the Medicis after the family returned to Florence as the ruling family. It was destroyed in World War II by German forces but rebuilt shortly after using some of the same original stone quarried from the Boboli gardens (much of it was lost to the Arno). The bridge is stated by some to be the most beautiful bridge in Florence, if not the whole world. The three simple arches defy any sort of mathematical or architectural principles, apparently drawn free-hand by some mysterious genius. The common theory is that Michelangelo himself designed it, anonymously, although this is more legend than verifiable fact.

The statues themselves have had an interesting life. There are four statues on the bridge, each representing one of the four seasons. They were on the original bridge and fell into the Arno when the bridge was destroyed in the war. Somehow, the statues survived intact and were able to be pulled from the river. The only damage was that Primavera (Spring) was missing her head. When it came time to decide whether to put the statues back on, a big debate took place. What was to be done about Spring’s head? Should it be replaced or should in stand as is as a sort-of monument to the damage of the war? Should the statues even be put back on at all? The statues are not really great pieces of art by Florentine standards, but they had always been on the bridge. The divergence in answers to these questions polarized the city. Legends sprang up about what had happened to the head and whether it was likely the city would ever get it back. Who would have guessed that such controversy would have arisen over a silly bridge?

The debate and mystery over Ponte Santa Trinita goes to show how deeply the Florentines care about their beloved city. The Florentine people have historically been enthusiastic about being involved in every decision. The Santa Trinita Bridge stands today, with all four original statues, connecting Via Tornabuoni (Florence’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue or Rodeo Drive) to the Oltrarno neighborhood (home of the artists and artisans). Gelateria Santa Trinita, one of the best gelato places in Florence, stands at the corner on the Oltrarno side. It is always nice to sit on the Ponte Santa Trinita on a sunny day, with its excellent views of Ponte Vecchio, to enjoy a gelato and some people-watching.