The Bargello Museum is one of the state museums in Florence. The focus of the museum is sculpture (marbles, bronzes and bas reliefs), but the museum also houses pottery, glazed terracotta, brass and ivory engravings as well as some paintings. The big draw of the museum is the Donatello room where his famous bronze version of David can be seen in addition to some other works of his (including his marble David). The bronze David is the first free-standing male nude sculpture to be made since the days of ancient Rome. The sculpture is also famous for its controversial homoeroticism. The giant-slayer is depicted as frail and effeminate and the sculpture led to speculation that Donatello himself might be a homosexual (a risky allegation at the time the sculpture was made). David has a strong connection to the Medici family, as it was most-likely commissioned by Cosimo de’ Medici (Cosimo the Elder) and once stood in the courtyard at Palazzo Medici. The statue was moved to the courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio after the Medici family was exiled in 1494. In the 17th century the sculpture was restored to the possession of the Medici family (in Palazzo Pitti) when they returned from exile to rule Florence as the royal family.
The building that houses these works has a very interesting history itself. The building’s first use (from the 13th to 15th centuries) was as the official residence of the Podestá, a sort-of mayor of the city of Florence, and is the city’s oldest seat of government. The building then became the city’s prison, and remained as such until 1857. Torture devices were kept in the courtyard. The chapel where those condemned to death would wait their execution is still intact inside the museum. The building then passed into the hands of a convent for a short time until it became the sculpture museum in 1886. The museum is located on the corner of Via del Proconsolo and via Ghibellina. It is open everyday from 8:00 until 2:00. Entrance costs 4€ and reservations can be made for an additional 3€. Individuals who hold the Friends of the Uffizi card get in free.
Right next door to the Bargello Museum is the Pazzi Palazzo, former home of one of the most important and notorious families in Renaissance Florence. The Pazzi family was a wealthy and noble banking family in Florence in the 15th century and huge rivals of the famous Medici family. What would make the Pazzi family most famous was the “Pazzi Conspiracy,” a plot to murder both Lorenzo de’ Medici (Lorenzo the Magnificent) and his brother Giuliano de’ Medici while they attended church at the Duomo. Giuliano was killed but Lorenzo got away and ruled over Florence for the next 14 years.
Also nearby is the best Mexican restaurant in town, Tijuana (Via Ghibellina 156r). Most dishes cost around ten euros and are well worth it. Drinks are about six or seven euros a pop, which is pretty typical, but happy hour at Tijuana is daily from 7:00-8:00pm and cocktails become half-price. If you want to attend happy hour on a Friday or Saturday, reservations are encouraged. If you are looking for some good Italian food, Osteria il Gatto e la Volpe (“the cat and the fox”, Via Ghibellina 151r) is also nearby. The service, food and prices are all good and the restaurant is student-friendly. The osteria might be a good place to try Florence’s famous dish: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (a thick-cut T-bone steak prepared with simple spicing and usually served rare to medium-rare).
Two nice bars are in the area as well, Naima and the Guitar Bar (both on Via dell’Anguillara). Naima is owned by the friendly English-speaking bartender Tony. The atmosphere is relaxed, the drinks are good and the prices are comparatively cheap (shots for 2€, drinks for 4 or 5€). In the evenings they offer a small aperitivo buffet. Naima also has a flat-screen T.V. where you can watch the latest calcio (football/soccer) game. The Guitar Bar is a small place in a basement nearby and specializes in wine and live music.
