Boboli Gardens

The Boboli gardens are directly behind the Palazzo Pitti and are sort-of the major park of the center of Florence, covering eleven acres of land. They are a great place for a leisurely stroll, offering fantastic sweeping views of the Florentine skyline from multiple points within the gardens. On a nice day you can see locals soaking up the sun on some of the various lawns and open spaces scattered throughout. In the fall you can run and jump in the leaves that have fallen from the surrounding trees. The gardens are a great place to come and relax, enjoy a bit of nature, and get away from all the stone and hustle of the city outside the Palazzo gates. The gardens extend from the Fort of the Belvedere and the adjacent Bardini Gardens to the north (in fact some of the garden walls are shared with the fort) and the Porta Romana (one of the old doors through the original city walls) on the south end.

The gardens once belonged to the Medici family, when they lived in the Palazzo Pitti as Grand Dukes of Tuscany. They are formal, 16th-century gardens, which is a style that focuses on wide gravel avenues, long stretches of grass, greenery and statuary. In keeping with the Medici tradition of being patrons of the arts, the garden is home to a number of important statues and fountains that represent the height of 16th century sculpture. Directly behind the Palazzo, and heading up the hill, is the Fountain of Neptune (different from the one outside Palazzo Vecchio). Also here is a small pond with a sculptured island in it, called Island Fountain, further down the axis of the gardens. There are a number of other sculptures and fountains to run into and discover. The Mostaccini fountain is particularly delightful, and the famous statue of a naked and fat Bacchus riding on a turtle is also here (just by the main exit of the gardens back into the courtyard of Palazzo Pitti). If traditional statues are not your favorite, the gardens also have a few modern sculptures in place all around the grounds. It is fun to just wander around and bump into a new statue at every turn.

There are not many flowers in the Boboli Gardens, as that would not be in keeping with the 16th-century style, but some flower beds can be found outside the Porcelain Museum (which is inside the garden grounds). The Porcelain Museums houses a collection of a number of different fine serving pieces owned by the Medici royal family. Also of interest in the grounds are the Medici grottoes, which are a sort of artificial cave decorated with face stalactites and artworks. There are two grottoes, both nearby the exit to the Palazzo Courtyard. The larger of the two, the Buontalenti Grotto, is down the same pathway as the Bacchus fountain. The other grotto, the Grotto of Madama, is a little bit more off the beaten path but maps of the gardens will locate it for you. Both of the grottoes were started by famous artist and art historian Giorgio Vasari. You cannot go inside the grottoes, but they are certainly worth a look as they are very different from anything else within the gardens.

A ticket can be purchased at the main ticket desk and will cost 10€ for the combined ticket number two (which also includes the Silver Museum, the Bardini Gardens, the Costume Gallery and the Porcelain Museum), but entry is free to those that hold the Friends of the Uffizi card. After a day at the gardens and in the Palace, stop by Pitti Gola and Cantina, a small wine bar across the square from the Palazzo that serves excellent wine in addition to small plates of antipasti such as cheese and bruschetta. Also nearby, a few blocks up the street, is the famous Ponte Vecchio. A stroll across the bridge, looking at all the glittering jewelry for sale there and getting a good look at both sides of the Arno River, is worth the time.

Palazzo Pitti

Palazzo Pitti is situated on the south side of the River Arno, a short distance from the Ponte Vecchio.  The construction of the building was commissioned in 1458 by Luca Pitti, a supporter and friend of Cosimo de' Medici.  The early history of the Palazzo Pitti is surrounded by both fact and fiction. The 16th-century art historian Giorgio Vasari proposed that Brunelleschi was the Palazzo's architect, and that his student Luca Fancelli was an assistant but today it is Fancelli that is generally credited.  Besides obvious differences from Brunelleschi’s style, he died 12 years before construction of the Palazzo began.  Work stopped after Pitti suffered financial losses following the death of Cosimo de' Medici in 1464.  Luca Pitti died in 1472 with the building unfinished.  

The building was then sold in 1549 by Buonaccorso Pitti, a descendant of Luca Pitti, to Eleonora di Toledo.  Eleonora was the wife of Cosimo I de' Medici of Tuscany, later the Grand Duke.  Cosimo had Giorgio Vasari enlarge the structure to fit his tastes - the palace was more than doubled.  Vasari also built the Vasari Corridor, an above-ground walkway from Cosimo's old palace and the seat of government, Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizi, above the Ponte Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti.  This enabled the Grand Duke and his family to move easily and safely from their official residence to Palazzo Pitti.  Initially Palazzo Pitti was used mostly for housing official guests and for infrequent affairs of the court, while the Medici’s principal residence remained in Palazzo Vecchio.  It was not until the reign of Eleonora's son Ferdinando I and his wife Cristina of Lorraine, that the palazzo was occupied on a permanent basis and became home to the Medici’s art collection.  Land on the Boboli hill at the rear of the palazzo was acquired in order to create a large formal park and gardens, today known as the Boboli Gardens.

The palazzo remained the principal Medici residence until the last male Medici heir died in 1737. It was then occupied briefly by his sister, the elderly Electress Palatine; on her death, the Medici dynasty became extinct and the palazzo passed to the new Grand Dukes of Tuscany, the Austrian House of Lorraine.  The Austrian reign was briefly interrupted by Napoleon, who used the palazzo during his period of control over Italy. 

When Tuscany passed from the House of Lorraine to the House of Savoy in 1860, Palazzo Pitti was included.  After the Risorgimento, when Florence was briefly the capital of the Kingdom of Italy, Victor Emmanuel II resided in the palazzo until 1871.  His grandson, Victor Emmanuel III, presented the palazzo to the nation in 1919.  The palazzo and other buildings in the Boboli Gardens were then divided into five separate art galleries and a museum, housing not only many of its original contents, but priceless artifacts from many other collections acquired by the state. The 140 rooms open to the public are part of an interior, mostly created in two phases, one in the 17th century and the other in the early 18th century.  Today, Palazzo Pitti and the surrounding Boboli Gardens house the Palatine Gallery, the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art, the Silver Museum, the Porcelain Museum, the Costume Gallery, and the Carriages Museum. 

The Galleria Palatina is the main collection.  It is strong on 16^th century works, and is located in a wing of the main palace.  The Galleria d’Arte Moderna consists of works spanning the mid-18^th to mid-20^th centuries.  I tis located in the main building on the floor above the Palatina.  The Museo degli Argenti (The Silver Museum) contains objects, gold and jewelry from the Medici collections.  You can access the Silver Museum from the main courtyard.  The Museo del Costume contains rotating exhibitions of clothing from the 18^th to mid-20^th centuries.  It is located in Palazzina Meridiana in the south wing.  The Museo delle Porcellane contains French, Italian, German, and Viennese porcelain and ceramics.  It is located in a pavilion at the top of the Giardino di Boboli.  The Appartamenti Reali are the lavishly decorated state apartments following on from the Palatina.  The Museo delle Carozze is closed at the present.    

Our Recommendations

Pitti Gola e Cantina is located directly across from Palazzo Pitti.  This small wine bar offers appetizers and snacks with their large selection of Tuscan wines by the glass or by the bottle. The owners are knowledgeable and friendly, and the food is great.  Glasses of wine range in price from €5 - €8, small appetizers cost around €5, and large appetizer plates cost around €10 euro. 

Pitti Vintage, located at Sdrucciolo dei Pitti 19/R, a small side across the street from Palazzo Pitti, one can find Italian and European designer vintage clothes, along with other one-of-a-kind vintage pieces.  Check it out!

The Best Non-Italian Food in Florence!

            In a city of 365,744 people, 90.45 percent of the population of Florence is Italian. An estimated 60,000 Chinese live in the city.  The largest immigrant groups come from other European countries, mostly from Albania and Romania, at 3.52 percent of the population.  Next are people from East Asia, mostly Chinese and Filipino, at 2.17 percent, the Americas at 1.41 percent, and North Africa (mostly Moroccan) at 0.9 percent of the population.  Since Florence is home to many different cultures, it is only fitting to discuss the best non-Italian food in Florence. 

When you're feeling homesick, you'll find some of the best cupcakes and bagels in town at Mama's. The friendly and relaxed atmosphere invites you to hang out in the beautiful new loggia, drink an American coffee (only €1 and refillable!), and eat a freshly baked bagel with cream.  Mama's American-style specialties include club and vegetable sandwiches, quiches, brownies, english muffins, chocolate chip cookies and cheese cake.  Prices range from €2.50 for a bagel with cream cheese, to €4-5 for a sandwich on a bagel or baguette.  The atmosphere is incredibly friendly – so bring your school work and linger for a couple of hours, they won’t mind!  Mama’s is located steps away from Piazza Santo Spirito on via della Chiesa, 34/r - 50125 Firenze.  Mon-Fri: 8am - 5pm, Sat: 9am - 3pm, Sun: closed.

 One of the most popular amongst Florentines is Dionisio at Via San Gallo, 16. This Greek restaurant serves traditional food that is said to be unrivaled in the city. Dionisio is popular so make a reservation, 055.217882.  Another great restaurant is Salamanca - an excellent Spanish Tapas bar (it turns into a discoteca after 10!) on Via Ghibellina 84. Their enormous menu has small plates, ceviches, paellas, and of course sangria.  Prices are reasonable; meals are typically priced under €10. 

For a choice off the beaten path try Ruth's, located down the the street from the synogogue on Via Luigi Carlo Farini 2a. This Kosher restaurant offers both Jewish and Tuscan plates.  Vegetarians can find a plethora of delicious dishes like couscous and hummus but the restaurant also serves a delicious array of salmon dishes for the meat eaters.  Also on Friday a special Shabbos meal is offered by reservation only.

When discussing non-Italian food in Florence, it is necessary to mention Doner Kebab.  Doner Kebab’s are the gyros of America.  Kebab’s are a delicious late night treat, as most Doner Kebab establishment’s are open late to serve the disco-going students.  Our favorite Doner Kebab restaurant is Istanbul Kebab, located across from Red Garter (a discoteca) on Via de’ Benci.  A favorite Chinese food establishment is Hong Kong on Via de’ Servi. 

Tijuana restaurant, located at Via Ghibellina 156/r has a happy hour every day from 7-8pm where every drink is half price (€3.80).  At Tijuana, the drink menu is just as long as the food menu.  Here, you can try margaritas in nine different flavors, frozen or on the rocks.  They also offer a variety of Caipiroska’s, which are drinks made with vodka, lime, and a smashed fruit of your choice - delicious!  Food is reasonably priced, with most meals costing less than €10.  We recommend the nachos, a tasty concoction of nacho chips, cheese, and three toppings of your choice!  If you plan on visiting Tijuana for happy hour during the weekend, be sure to make a reservation, either by phone, 055 2341330, or their website http://www.tijuanaristorante.it/home.html.  We hope this post helps you to find some of the food that you are used to at home, while enjoying the cultural diversity of Firenze.  Enjoy!

Best Italian Food of Florence

Let us begin this entry of the UNESCO Youth blog with a disclaimer. The writers of this blog all live in a district of Florence known as Oltrarno or ‘Over the Arno’. This is area of Florence that is on the south side of the Arno River and is known for its artisan shops, Palazzo Pitti, and for being home to more actual residents of the city than tourist traps. That being said, the restaurants picked for this list are based on our extensive knowledge of this area of the city, which coincidentally and to our favor is home to some of the most authentic and reasonably priced restaurants in the city. There are bound to be other great spots in the other districts of the city, but as a rule to remember, the closer you are to the major tourist sites (Duomo, Galleria degli Uffizi, etc.) the more expensive and less authentic in general the food will be.

• Trattoria Casalinga
Trattoria Casalinga is located on Via Maggio right near Piazza Santo Spirito and not far from Palazzo Pitti making a great spot to stop off for an authentic lunch or dinner. Casalinga translates to “housewife” and reflects that all the food is fresh and cooked from scratch. The menu changes all the time depending on what is fresh, so you may have to visit several times! Prices are cheap for a sit-down dinner in the city and the food is some of the best around. Try authentic dishes like Ribollita, a traditional Tuscan-peasant soup or pasta Bolognese which is done perfectly. This restaurant is found in many guidebooks so be sure to get there promptly at 7pm when they open so that you can be seated right away, as a line almost always forms. The menu is only in Italian so bring your book or ask the waiter if you need help.
•    Osteria: il Cantinone

This restaurant located on Via Santo Spirito (6r) has all the atmosphere you could ever want in your Florentine dining experience. Located in an old wine cellar, this restaurant looks like a “hole in the wall” from the street but has one of the best lunch deals in the city. Surrounded by brick ceilings and a cozy surroundings, you can enjoy a Tuscan lunch with wine for as little as €4. The daily lunch menu has 10 choices ranging from €4 to €6 and is a great way to not only eat on the cheap, but also to escape the midday heat of the Florentine summer.
• Trattoria del Carmine
If you are looking to splurge a little and go out for a nice dinner, try Trattoria del Carmine. This restaurant located on Piazza del Carmine and just a few minutes’ walk from Ponte Carraia is our recommendation of where to get one of the highlights of Tuscan and Florence cuisine, Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Bistecca is essentially a large T-bone steak that is meant for at least 2 people and is sold (usually) by weight. The steak is traditionally prepared rare and is cooked simply with only a little oil and salt to flavor. Couple this with a side dish of your choice and red wine and you have a delicious, authentic dinner. Piazza del Carmine, 18, 50124 Firenze. Opens 7pm. Menu in Italian.
• Gusta Pizza

During your Italian trip you will inevitably at some point want to try pizza in its place of origin. Our recommendation for trying pizza in Florence is Gusta Pizza, which makes delicious piazzas in its wood fired oven. Gusta has several pizzas to choose from, but our suggestions include the Calabrese with spicy salami and the Gustapizza which has rucola and parmesan on top. You can get your pizza to stay or to go, which is usually necessary since the few tables fill up quickly. On a nice evening get a pizza to go and sit on the steps of the Santo Spirito church and take in the atmosphere. Prices are cheap ranging from €4.50 to €8.00 for a pizza. Open 11:30-3pm; 7pm-11pm. Closed Mondays. Located corner of Via Maggio and Via dei Michelozzi.

• Caffe’ Ricchi

Our favorite spot in the city is this café which is located right on Piazza Santo Spirito in the heart of the Oltrarno. Here you can relax and enjoy a cappuccino out on the patio in the square or on cold or rainy days sit in the inside room and enjoy artistic interpretations of the blank façade of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Santo Spirito. To experience the true Florentine way of coffee however, you must stand at the bar and drink your espresso black with just a little sugar. At lunch the café has food both to sit and eat and to take away with dishes such as lasagna being regulars on the menu. The café also has deserts, panini, and salads in the case for you to choose from. Prices are cheap with a shot of espresso costing €0.90 and a piece of lasagna €4.00. Piazza Santo Spirito 9r.

Florentine Fashion

Gucci. Prada. Ferragamo. Armani. Valentino. Versace. Pucci. Italian names have been synonymous with high fashion for decades and fashion has been a huge part of Italian culture. The “made in Italy” tag is treated with respect here, and people flock from all over the world to Italy in order to buy leather boots, a little black dress or a nice-cute suit. Florence in particular has had a lot of success in the area of fashion, although Milan has come to be the fashion capital of Italy. The Gucci brand was founded by Guccio Gucci here in 1921. Salvatore Ferragamo also founded his brand of high fashion shoes here. The high-end clothing line Pucci is also Florentine. In addition, Florence is also well-known for its high-quality leather-works, the Santa Croce leather school being an important institution here.

In Florence today all the famous fashion houses can be found on Via Tornabuoni, a sort of Florentine “Fifth Avenue” or “Rodeo Drive”. The street runs from the Arno River at the Santa Trinita bridge and up by Palazzo Strozzi. Here you can find stores representing all the famous Italian houses and some other fashion names you might recognize: Hermés, Tommy Hilfiger, Tiffany & Co., Burberry, and so on. If the stores are a little out of your price range, the street is still a good place for a nice stroll filled with window-shopping and people-watching. The street is named after the Tornabuoni family, a wealthy and prominent banking and merchant family from the days of the Medici. The family was also very involved in Florentine politics, serving as ambassadors to Rome and top-ranking officials in the Florentine government. Like the Medici, the Tornabuoni family members were also great patrons of the arts. Lucrezia Tornabuoni married into the Medici family and is the mother of Lorenzo the Magnificent.

At the beginning of Via Tornabuoni, where the street meets the river, is the Ferragamo store in an old palazzo dating from the fourteenth century that has belonged to the Ferragamo company throughout the 1900s. The store also houses a small museum in the basement. Exhibits in the museum change all the time. Typically there are exhibits on different shoes made by Salvatore Ferragamo and how he has influenced fashion and footwear over the years. There are also exhibits dedicated to certain influential stars who had close relationships with Ferragamo and relied on him for their shoes. The museum is small but has a lot to offer. They put together interesting and modern displays and have a comfortable video room. Double check the exhibit before visiting (the exhibit is advertised on the side of the building where the entrance to the museum is, on the side of the building furthest from the river) to make sure that it is something you are interested in seeing. Entrance to the museum is 5€ and no discounts are offered. Pop upstairs into the store for a look around as well to see modern Ferragamo. Most of the items are a little pricey, but some smaller accessories (like address books or stationary sets) can be bought for less than 15€. Across the street from the Ferragamo store and museum is the tranquil Santa Trinita church, noted for its frescoes by famous Renaissance artist Ghirlandaio who would go on to be an important teacher of Michelangelo.

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Signoria

One of the largest squares in central Florence, Piazza della Signoria is one of the cultural hubs of the historic center and is home to many important sights, not the least of which is Palazzo Vecchio which was and still is city hall. The Galleria degli Uffizi is also located just off of the square and is world renowned as one of the centers of Renissance art.

Piazza della Signoria is one of the three primary squares of early Florence, taking the role of the political center of the city. It is impossible to talk about the square without talking about its most impressive structure, Palazzo Vecchio. Construction on Florence’s city hall was started in 1299 by demolishing two previously existing Palazzi on the site clearing out room for the square. During the construction process, the old substructure of the tower was maintained, leading to the odd sight today that the tower is not located in the center of the building but is instead pushed to the right side. The building was home to the Medici family until they moved across the river to Palazzo Pitti, thus necessitating the need for the construction of the Vasari Corridor which allowed the Medici to walk from their new home to the City Hall without having to go into public. The end of the Corridor can be seen connecting from the Uffizi into the right side of the Palazzo as you are facing it straight on. Looking straight at the Palazzo you can see a copy of Michelangelo’s David on the left side of the entranceway (where the original used to sit until 1873) and the statue of Hercules and Cacus on the right.

Palazzo Vecchio

The inside of Palazzo Vecchio is mainly a museum today which showcases the rooms where Cosimo I lived and held audience. The first room you will enter after purchasing your ticket and walking upstairs is Salone dei Cinquecento, or Room of 500 which represents the Grand Council of Florence which had 500 members during the time of the Medici’s exile from the city. However at the time of naming the room was not as big as you see it today, as when the Medici returned to Florence it was enlarged by Giorgio Vasari by raising the roof. Vasari also designed the ceiling and walls of the enormous room, which depicts historical scenes from the Florentine Republic such as the capture of Siena on the right side of the room and the taking of Pisa on the left. The ceiling depicts Great Episodes from the life of Cosimo I, with the center showing Cosimo I during his Glorification as Grand Duke of Florence and Tuscany. As you continue through the building, you will enter rooms where the Medici used to live and small chapels where they could pray privately. During the warmer months the Terrace of Saturn will be open allowing views to the southeast across the Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo and Fortress Belvedere on the hill. Also upstairs is a second view of the Salone dei Cinquecento which allows not only a closer view of the ceiling but also to take in the scope of this huge room. One of the rooms near the end of the visit worth taking a closer look at is the Stanza del Guardaroba which translates to wardrobe or coatroom and was where the Medici would keep their valuables. It is decorated with 53 maps which show what the world looked like at the time of the Medici in the 16^th Century.  Tours of the Palazzo are available in several languages, although it is advised to call ahead to reserve a spot and find out times as tours in English are infrequent and fill up quickly. Some practical information for your visit:

·         Tickets cost €6.00 or €4.50 reduced

·         Flash photography is prohibited

·         The Palazzo is open 9:00 until 19:00 every day except Thursdays and Sundays when it closes at 14:00

·         There is a security screening before entering the Palazzo, which can cause lines to be long.

Continuing around the square from Palazzo Vecchio we can see an area of wide arches with several statues underneath. This is called the Loggia dei Lanzi and was built between 1376 and 1382. With the completion of the Galleria degli Uffizi, the roof of the Loggia was turned into a terrace where the Medici could watch the ceremonies and happenings in Piazza Signoria. Today it is the café of the Galleria degli Uffizi and you can sit outide under the shadow of Palazzo Vecchio with an extremely overpriced caffe, if you wish. The area underneath the Loggia is home to many statues from the Renissance and is definitely worth wandering through, especially since it is free.

Looking to the left of Palazzo Vecchio we can see the large Fountain of Neptune which was constructed from 1563-1565. The face of Neptune in the statue is reminicent of Cosimo I de’ Medici and is representative of the Florentine rule over the seas. Over its life, the statue has been vandalized several times including most recently in 2005 when one of the hands of Neptune was cut off.

Finally, with the fountain behind you look on the ground to the front and left. Search until you find a small marble plaque on the ground. This small circle refers to Girolamo Savonarola who was the leader of Florence for four years from 1494 to 1498. Savonarola had taken over power in Florence after the Medici were overthrown by Charles VIII of France in 1494, and immediately began what could be described as a ‘crackdown on the Renissance’. Savonarola carried out the Bonfire of the Vanities which destroyed items that were associated with sin such as mirrors, cosmetics, fine dresses, paintings, playing cards, and musical instruments. Savonarola quickly lost favor with the populace and was excommunicated by Pope Alexander VI in 1497. This lead to his death on May 23, 1498 at the same spot the Bonfire of the Vanities had occurred a year earlier which is exactly where this plaque now sits. These events allowed the Medici to resume control of Florence in 1512.

Practical Information

·         There are several ATMs located around the square so finding one should not be a problem.

·         The 24hr pharmacy or farmacia is located just off of the square. Stand on the far side of the square from Palazzo Vecchio and stand so that it is on your right. The farmacia should come up on the left as you walk up the street in front of you.

·         Old Stove Signoria is a good bar right in the square and has drink specials, dollar nights, and live music. Walk around to the left side of Palazzo Vecchio and turn so that it is behind you to find this great spot.

           

 

The Bargello Museum

The Bargello Museum is one of the state museums in Florence. The focus of the museum is sculpture (marbles, bronzes and bas reliefs), but the museum also houses pottery, glazed terracotta, brass and ivory engravings as well as some paintings. The big draw of the museum is the Donatello room where his famous bronze version of David can be seen in addition to some other works of his (including his marble David). The bronze David is the first free-standing male nude sculpture to be made since the days of ancient Rome. The sculpture is also famous for its controversial homoeroticism. The giant-slayer is depicted as frail and effeminate and the sculpture led to speculation that Donatello himself might be a homosexual (a risky allegation at the time the sculpture was made). David has a strong connection to the Medici family, as it was most-likely commissioned by Cosimo de’ Medici (Cosimo the Elder) and once stood in the courtyard at Palazzo Medici. The statue was moved to the courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio after the Medici family was exiled in 1494. In the 17th century the sculpture was restored to the possession of the Medici family (in Palazzo Pitti) when they returned from exile to rule Florence as the royal family.

The building that houses these works has a very interesting history itself. The building’s first use (from the 13th to 15th centuries) was as the official residence of the Podestá, a sort-of mayor of the city of Florence, and is the city’s oldest seat of government. The building then became the city’s prison, and remained as such until 1857. Torture devices were kept in the courtyard. The chapel where those condemned to death would wait their execution is still intact inside the museum. The building then passed into the hands of a convent for a short time until it became the sculpture museum in 1886. The museum is located on the corner of Via del Proconsolo and via Ghibellina. It is open everyday from 8:00 until 2:00. Entrance costs 4€ and reservations can be made for an additional 3€. Individuals who hold the Friends of the Uffizi card get in free.

Right next door to the Bargello Museum is the Pazzi Palazzo, former home of one of the most important and notorious families in Renaissance Florence. The Pazzi family was a wealthy and noble banking family in Florence in the 15th century and huge rivals of the famous Medici family. What would make the Pazzi family most famous was the “Pazzi Conspiracy,” a plot to murder both Lorenzo de’ Medici (Lorenzo the Magnificent) and his brother Giuliano de’ Medici while they attended church at the Duomo. Giuliano was killed but Lorenzo got away and ruled over Florence for the next 14 years.

Also nearby is the best Mexican restaurant in town, Tijuana (Via Ghibellina 156r). Most dishes cost around ten euros and are well worth it. Drinks are about six or seven euros a pop, which is pretty typical, but happy hour at Tijuana is daily from 7:00-8:00pm and cocktails become half-price. If you want to attend happy hour on a Friday or Saturday, reservations are encouraged. If you are looking for some good Italian food, Osteria il Gatto e la Volpe (“the cat and the fox”, Via Ghibellina 151r) is also nearby. The service, food and prices are all good and the restaurant is student-friendly. The osteria might be a good place to try Florence’s famous dish: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (a thick-cut T-bone steak prepared with simple spicing and usually served rare to medium-rare).

Two nice bars are in the area as well, Naima and the Guitar Bar (both on Via dell’Anguillara). Naima is owned by the friendly English-speaking bartender Tony. The atmosphere is relaxed, the drinks are good and the prices are comparatively cheap (shots for 2€, drinks for 4 or 5€). In the evenings they offer a small aperitivo buffet. Naima also has a flat-screen T.V. where you can watch the latest calcio (football/soccer) game. The Guitar Bar is a small place in a basement nearby and specializes in wine and live music.

Ponte Santa Trinita

Most major European cities have been built around great rivers. London has the Thames, Paris has the Seine, and Amsterdam has the Amstel. Rivers have historically been necessary for trade, travel and water supply. Florence is no different. The city spans both sides of the Arno River, which flows from the Apennines Mountains running through the middle of Italy and into the Tyrrhenian Sea at Pisa. The presence of the river, of course, makes bridges an important part of the city. The famous Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) is one of the top sights to see in Florence, but the other bridges in the city have interesting histories just like Ponte Vecchio and are just as important. Take the Ponte Vecchio’s neighbor to the west, for example: Ponte Santa Trinita.

The bridge was commissioned by Cosimo I of the Medicis after the family returned to Florence as the ruling family. It was destroyed in World War II by German forces but rebuilt shortly after using some of the same original stone quarried from the Boboli gardens (much of it was lost to the Arno). The bridge is stated by some to be the most beautiful bridge in Florence, if not the whole world. The three simple arches defy any sort of mathematical or architectural principles, apparently drawn free-hand by some mysterious genius. The common theory is that Michelangelo himself designed it, anonymously, although this is more legend than verifiable fact.

The statues themselves have had an interesting life. There are four statues on the bridge, each representing one of the four seasons. They were on the original bridge and fell into the Arno when the bridge was destroyed in the war. Somehow, the statues survived intact and were able to be pulled from the river. The only damage was that Primavera (Spring) was missing her head. When it came time to decide whether to put the statues back on, a big debate took place. What was to be done about Spring’s head? Should it be replaced or should in stand as is as a sort-of monument to the damage of the war? Should the statues even be put back on at all? The statues are not really great pieces of art by Florentine standards, but they had always been on the bridge. The divergence in answers to these questions polarized the city. Legends sprang up about what had happened to the head and whether it was likely the city would ever get it back. Who would have guessed that such controversy would have arisen over a silly bridge?

The debate and mystery over Ponte Santa Trinita goes to show how deeply the Florentines care about their beloved city. The Florentine people have historically been enthusiastic about being involved in every decision. The Santa Trinita Bridge stands today, with all four original statues, connecting Via Tornabuoni (Florence’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue or Rodeo Drive) to the Oltrarno neighborhood (home of the artists and artisans). Gelateria Santa Trinita, one of the best gelato places in Florence, stands at the corner on the Oltrarno side. It is always nice to sit on the Ponte Santa Trinita on a sunny day, with its excellent views of Ponte Vecchio, to enjoy a gelato and some people-watching.

The Basilica di San Lorenzo

The Basilica di San Lorenzo is one of the largest churches in Florence.  It is located at the center of the city’s main market district, and is the burial place of all the principal members of the Medici family from Cosimo il Vecchio to Cosimo III.  When it was constructed in 393 it stood outside the city walls of Florence.  It was the city’s main cathedral for three hundred years before the official seat of the bishop was moved to Santa Reparata.  San Lorenzo was also the parish church of the Medici family.  In 1419, Giovanni di Bicci de' Medici offered to finance a new church to replace the eleventh-century Romanesque rebuilding. Filippo Brunelleschi was commissioned to design it, but the building, with some modifications, was not completed until after his death.  The nave contains works by Donatello, Lippi, Bronzino, and Rosso.  The church is part of a larger complex that contains other important architectural works: the Old Sacristy by Brunelleschi; the Laurentian Library by Michelangelo; the New Sacristy based on Michelangelo's designs; and the Medici Chapels by Matteo Nigetti.

Opening off the north transept is the square, domed space, the Sagrestia Vecchia, or Old Sacristy, that was designed by Brunelleschi.  The Old Sacristy, given its name, is the oldest part of the present church and the only part completed in Brunelleschi's lifetime.  It contains the tombs of several members of the Medici family.  It was composed of a sphere on top of a cube; the cube represents the human world and the sphere the heavens.  You can walk out of the main door on the left of the Old Sacristy into the gorgeous two-tiered cloisters that frame the garden.  The Church costs €2.50 to enter, with no student discount.  There are free tours Monday-Saturday from 10:00-12:30, and 3:00-5:00. 

The most celebrated and grandest part of San Lorenzo is the Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels) in the apse.  The chapels, at the eastern end of the church, consist of the crypt, and the Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of Princes), which is the Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy).  The New Sacristy was begun in 1520 by Michelangelo, who also designed the Medici tombs within.  Inspired by Brunelleschi’s Old Sacristy, it was used as a funeral chapel for the Medici family.  Almost fifty lesser members of the Medici family are buried in the crypt.  Stone steps lead from the crypt to the Cappella dei Principi, which is an octagonal mausoleum.  It was begun in 1604 and is entirely lined with marble and gems.  This chapel contains the remains of the most famous of the Medici family.  The Cappelle Medicee cost €8, with no student discount.

The Laurentian Library (Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana) is a famous storehouse of more than 11,000 manuscripts and 4,500 early printed books.  It was under the patronage of the Medici pope, Clement VII. The Library was built to emphasize that the Medici family were no longer simply merchants but members of the intelligent and church society. It contains the manuscripts and books belonging to the private library of the Medici family. The library is renowned for the architecture, planned and built by Michelangelo Buonarroti.

A grand market is located outside of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, called Mercato di San Lorenzo.  The outside stands are where to buy leather, however, make sure it’s made in Italy and always be prepared to bargain.  In addition to leather goods are clothes and gifts, including t-shirts and a plethora of scarves.  Located in the middle of the numerous stalls is the real Mercato Centrale, a space full of Florentine delicacies.  There are stands for fruits, vegetables, and delicatessen’s full of meat and cheese.  There are also stands where you can get lunch.  It is highly recommended to take a stroll through Mercato di San Lorenzo to check out all of the great deals!  

Located between the Duomo and the Basilica di San Lorenzo, is Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.  The Palazzo was built by Michelozzo some time after 1444, as a town mansion for Cosimo il Vecchio, and was the residence of the Medici's until 1540.  The Riccardi family bought the palace in 1659 and enlarged it.  It is now the headquarters of the provincial government.  Entrance costs €4, with no student discount.  With entrance, you can explore the main, columned courtyard with frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli, and the gallery with frescoes by Luca Giordano.