Piazza della Repubblica

Piazza della Repubblica

This entry of the new UNESCO youth blog highlights what was the first piazza in Florence and is now the heart of the Florentine historic center, Piazza della Repubblica. This piazza is one of the most prominent in Florence, being at the center of the historic district, making it likely you will stumble upon it during your travels, even if you were not specifically looking for it. For these reasons, Piazza della Repubblica is a logical place to stop and find when  trying to gather your bearings and to know something about, as you will most likely cross through it several times during any trip to Florence.

History of Piazza della Repubblica

As mentioned earlier, Piazza della Repubblica was the first square in Florence, with origins that can be traced back to the Roman forum that was present on the site in the ancient city of Florentia. Standing on the eastern edge of the square (furthest away from the large arch and facing it), you can still see the main axes of the Roman camp with the north-south running to you left and right and the east-west axis running from under the arch to behind you.

During the Middle Ages, the Piazza became home to the main market in Florence until the 16^th Century when a larger market was completed just two block south (closer to the river and Ponte Vecchio), and thus the area became known as Mercato Vecchio or Old Market. At this time however the square was not nearly as large as it appears today. The Mercato Vecchio was small and rectangular; choked with market stalls, shrines, churches, and home to the Jewish Ghetto complete with two synagogues, one Florentine and one Spanish. The only remnant from this original square today is the Colonna dell'Abbondanza or Column of Abundance which is located in the north-eastern part of the square.

The Piazza della Repubblica that you see today began to take shape after the unification of Italy and the proclamation of Florence as capital of Italy. Plans were then made to widen the square and to clear out many of the buildings that had been unchanged from the Medieval period. In their place were built the large palazzoni (literally- palaces) you see today. The large portico with the 'triumphal arch’ on the west side of the square was constructed  at the end of the 19^th Century as well, and carries the inscription “L'ANTICO CENTRO DELLA CITTÀ; DA SECOLARE SQUALLORE; A VITA NUOVA RESTITUITO” which translates to ‘The ancient center of the city; restored from old-age squalor; to new life.

Things to See and Do in/near Piazza della Repubblica

So now that you know a little something about the square, you can fully appreciate all the things that are concentrated in and around this important spot.

·          Take a ride on the carousel

o    Located  in a ‘can’t miss spot’ in the center of the square, a ride on the carousel is a fun diversion from a frantic afternoon of sightseeing and map-reading. One ticket for an adult costs €1.50 .

·         Edison Bookstore

o   Forget you Florence guide in the car at the airport? Don’t sweat it as Edison carries guide books in English and several other languages in addition to Italian. Guide books are located on the very top floor. Edison is located underneath the portico on the west side of the square, to the right of the large arch.

 ·         Bronze Florence Diorama

o   Located in the square close to Edison, this 3-D map can be useful to gain your bearings and figure out which other sites to visit next.

·         Caffè Gilli

o   Located on the north-west corner of the square, Caffè Gilli is a great place to get a cafè, sit out on the square and people watch. It is on the expensive side, but the pastries and cakes are among the best in the city.

·         Market Stalls/Vendors/Artisans

o   Almost every day, during daylight hours, there will be stalls set up on the eastern side of the square selling leather goods and Florence souvenirs. In addition, many artisans set up shop around  this location, creating caricatures and paintings right in front of you. At night in the square there is usually a musical performer or group in the center near the carousel. If you are lucky, you may catch an opera singer underneath the portico near the arch using the acoustics to make their voice carry throughout the square.

·         Cinema Odeon

o   Just two blocks off the square is Cinema Odeon, an 85 year old theatre located in Palazzo Strozzino which was built in 1462. The cinema is not only home to theater and film festivals but also shows Hollywood productions in English.

Practical Information

·         If you are looking for an ATM (bancomat) near the square there is one located on Via Pellicceria. Simply walk towards the arch and when you hit the street in front of the arch, hang a left and walk until you see it on the left side, just past Caffé Le Giubbe Rosse.

·         The central post office for Florence is also located on Via Pellicceria. Just walk down the street and it will be under the portico on the right hand side. Look for the red mailboxes outside the door.

  o   When sending mail in Florence, be sure to put your letter in the correct slot. Most mailboxes (marked Poste) will have two slots, one on the left marked (per la citta’) is for inter-city mail, while the one on the right will say per tutte le alter destinazioni or all other destinations. Unless you are sending something locally, be sure to use the slot on the right.

·         Intertravel Viaggi is a travel agency located just off the square on Via de’ Lamberti. Intertravel can book train tickets for you, sometimes at a 15% or 30%  discount off normal rates, depending on how far in advance you book. Simply walk down Via Pellicceria past the ATM and Via de’ Lamberti will be your second left.

The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, commonly referred to as the Duomo, is the Florentine and Renaissance landmark, and architectural masterpiece of Florence. Work began in 1296 in the Gothic style, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and was completed in 1436 with the dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi. The Duomo was built by Brunelleschi using neither supports nor scaffolding. The exterior of the basilica is faced with marble panels in various shades of green, pink, and white and has an extremely elaborate 19th century facade by Emilio De Fabris because the original façade was destroyed in the 1500s. The cathedral complex, located in Piazza del Duomo, includes the Baptistery and Giotto's Campanile (the bell tower). The three buildings are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site covering the historic center of Florence.

We highly recommend starting your day by picking up a panino from a self-service restaurant nearby Piazza del Duomo and sitting on the stairs of the Duomo before entering. It’s a great time to people watch, take in the sites of the Baptistery, admire the Gates of Paradise, and even the men giving horse and carriage rides to tourists. The interior of the Duomo has been left relatively bare since most of the great pieces of artwork have been moved to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, located on the east side of Piazza del Duomo. Despite the lack of art, there is still room to appreciate the massive Gothic arches, the patterned marble flooring, and the 15th century stained glass windows, which are among Italy’s greatest. Steps to the Crypt of Santa Reparata lead down from the south aisle. The finds from the excavation in the 1920s date back between the sixth and 12th centuries. The space has archaeological finds date back to Roman times. Entry to the crypt costs €3, while entry inside the cathedral is free! 

Climbing the 463 steps to the top of the Cupola of Santa Maria del Fiore is a must! You will be able to get a 360° view of the entire city of Florence and surrounding areas that are absolutely breathtaking. Entry to the Cupola is €8, and there are no student discounts available. Upon climbing a couple set of stairs, the first stopping point is the gallery that runs on the interior of the dome, with an amazing close-up of Vasari and Zuccari’s Last Judgment fresco on the ceiling of the dome. As you continue to walk up the winding and narrow stairs, you can stop for some beautiful views out the small windows on the way up. Once on top of the Cupola, you will be able to see all of the main sights of Florence - Santa Maria Novella to the West, Santo Spirito to the South, Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio to the East, and the Synagogue to the North.

The Battistero (Baptistery) was originally Florence’s cathedral, eventually replaced by Santa Maria del Fiore. The Baptistery is one of Florence’s oldest buildings, probably dating from around the sixth to seventh century. The Baptistery is most famous for its three sets of Bronze doors, the south set designed by Andrea Pisano, and the other two sets by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Ghiberti, at the age of 20, won the commission for the north doors in a competition. Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise, on the east side of the Baptistery, are made up of 10 relief panels of biblical subjects. They are extremely important because of Ghiberti’s use of perspective, extending the scenes into the background, which was a new concept at the time. The current Gates of Paradise is a reproduction – the original panels are kept in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Admission to the Baptistery is €4, with no student discount. However, we recommend that you take a quick look of the glittering inside, of the place where Dante was baptized, but from the outside. 

The Campanile, or Giotto’s Bell Tower, was designed by Giotto in 1334. Giotto died before it was completed, and both Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti altered the original design considerably and oversaw the completion. The building is covered with green, pink, and white marble, and is decorated with copies of sculptures and reliefs showing prophets and scenes from the Old Testament. The original reliefs and sculptures are also in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Entry is €6, with no student discount. There are 414 steps to the top of the tower, with 360° views of Florence as well. 

 The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo contains the sculptures and paintings from the Duomo complex, which are too precious to leave subject to pollution. Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise are the main attraction; however, there are also works by many leading sculptors. The works of Donatello and Michelangelo show a great overview of Florentine sculpture. Michelangelo’s Pieta, his last work which he created when he was 80, intended for his tomb but not finished, is also located in the Museo. Entry to the Museo is €6, with no student discount. 

Our Recommendations

Recently, all traffic around the Duomo has been restricted; therefore it is great to be able to take in the views of the entire Duomo sans cars. On the south side of the Duomo are artists who draw caricatures, stalls of souvenir salesmen, and men very eager to sell their posters. Also on the south side of the Piazza is B. Gallo, a restaurant with well-priced pasta dinners (€3 euro cover), or stand at the bar for some reasonably priced caffè. Located next to B. Gallo is an Irish pub, Old Stove, with good priced drinks, great drink specials, and dollar nights, where you can get rid of your spare dollars for drinks! Two streets that room from the south side of the Duomo, Via Roma and Via dei Calzaiuoli, and another that runs from the west, Via de’ Cerretani, are great streets to go shopping for all sorts of fashion items. On the north side of the Duomo is a Ben & Jerry’s if you’re looking for some ice cream, or there are many other gelato parlors encompassing the entire Duomo. One of our favorite views in Florence is the view of the Duomo is at night. It looks unreal after sunset, so if you get the chance to take a stroll past the Duomo at night, we highly recommend it!

Santa Croce

Brief History

The Church of Santa Croce was built in the year 1294 for the Franciscan order of monks. It was designed by the architect Arnolfo di Cambio (who also designed the Duomo cathedral), who later went on to work on the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio. The church was built for use by the Franciscan order of monks, an order that was highly controversial at the time because they challenged the decadence of the Catholic Church and opted to live their lives in poverty. It has been suggested that the humanistic outlook of the Franciscans was one of the inspirations for the Renaissance in Florence. The church has a colorful marble façade that is typical of many Italian churches. Santa Croce’s façade was left unfinished, though, until the tiles were added in the 1850s. On November 4, 1966 the Arno River flooded the cities of Florence and Pisa. The water level rose over fifteen feet in Piazza Santa Croce and damaged much of the inside of the church. There is now a small exhibit inside the church about the flood, and many of the works of art in the small museum on grounds have been restored.

Things to See

Santa Croce has many points of interest and is a center of national cultural pride. The church has become somewhat of an Italian version of Westminster Abbey in London; the burial site of many great and historically important Italians. Michelangelo Buonarroti, the famous artist best known for painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, is here as well as Galileo Galilei (revolutionary and controversial scientist), Nicoló Machiavelli (political commentator and author of The Prince), and Gioacchino Rossini (composer of The Barber of Seville). There is also a cenotaph, an empty tomb, dedicated to Dante Alighieri (who is alo portrayed in a statue out frong, depicted to the right).

There are also some other Italians represented here who, although they are not buried here, you might have heard of. In the old sacristy is a piece of a tunic once worn by St. Francis of Assisi, the man who created the Franciscan order of monks. Alongside the tunic is a Papal Bull (an official letter issued by the Pope) legitimizing the Franciscan order. It was the Franciscans who once lived in and used Santa Croce as their place of worship. The church also holds the relics of the Blessed Humiliana de’ Cerchi, an important religious figure. She was born in Florence in 1219 and joined the Franciscan order after becoming a widow and desiring to live the rest of her days in prayer and chastity.

In addition to important religious pieces, there is a lot of important art in the church as well, including some frescoes by both Giotto and Gaddi in the various chapels surrounding the altar. Donatello (you can see his famous version of David at the Bargello Museum) has two sculptures here Crucifix (in the chapel in the left corner when facing the altar) and Annunciation (in between Rossini and Machiavelli’s tombs) here. Sadly, there are many paintings within the church that have been badly damaged or not preserved well – a tragedy to the cultural heritage represented here. A lot of the damage is the result of a great flood that occurred here in 1966. You can still see the water mark high up on the walls and columns. The architect Brunelleschi (architect of both the dome of the Duomo and of Santo Spirito church) is also well represented here, having designed both the domed Pazzi Chapel and the beautiful second cloister. The cloister and the outdoor areas of Santa Croce are lovely spots to stroll through on a sunny day.

Also of interest inside the grounds of the church is the Santa Croce leather school, housed in the former Medici-commissioned dormitory of the monastery. The school was founded after World-War II with the aim of giving orphans of the war the opportunity to learn a trade with which they could earn a living. Leather has always been a specialty of Italians and Santa Croce had historically been a neighborhood of leatherworkers, so naturally the art of leather-making was passed down. The school is still active and anyone can sign up to be a student. Classes that are offered vary from a half-day workshop (130 euros) to a six-month course (8,000 euros). If you aren’t looking to become a student, you can still purchase some of the high quality leather goods that Florence is famous for. Handbags and jackets will set you back a few hundred euros, but wallets can be purchased for between 30 and 100 euros. Leather bracelets, change purses, and small zip bags can all be purchased for less than 15 euro and university students receive a ten percent discount!

The entrance and ticket office can be found on the left side of the church. Entrance into Santa Croce is five euro and there are no discounts for students, but entrance to just the leather school is free (there is a special entrance just for the school in the back of the church). Be sure to dress modestly (knees and shoulders covered) because the dress code is sometimes enforced. In my opinion, the cost of admission is well worth it. Santa Croce is a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture with an elegant and spacious nave. The church and the surrounding area are clearly an important cultural center of Florence. The large square outside the church hosts many wonderful Florentine events and festivals, including a wine event in the fall, a chocolate festival in winter, a neighborhood football game in June and Germanic Christmas markets in December.

Things in the Surrounding Area

There is plenty to do in the Santa Croce neighborhood other than visiting the church and square. Casa Buonarroti, the house once owned by Michelangelo and since renovated by his family, is now a museum to his life. The house itself is beautiful, and here you can find sketches and sculptures by the artist (including his earliest known work, Madonna della Scala) in addition to some artifacts from his everyday life, such as shoes and walking sticks and the original door to his house. Entrance to the house is €6.50, certainly worth it if you are a big fan of Michelangelo’s work.

The Santa Croce neighborhood has also become a popular evening hangout with students and many bars and clubs have sprung up in the area. The neighborhood is also home to the city’s main gay/lesbian hangout, Yag (Via de’ Macci 8r). But there is more than just clubs in the neighborhood. If you are interested in trying a fun Italian evening tradition, then head for a restaurant that does aperitivo. Aperitivo is an all-you-can-eat buffet with a variety of dishes ranging from finger foods and sandwiches to pastas and salads that you can eat after the purchase of a drink. Moyo (Via dei Benci 23r) and Oibo (Via dei Benci 53r) are both good spots to do an aperitivo.

If you are looking for a piece of home away from home, there are a few places that cater to Americans in the area. House of Sizzle/Red Garter (Via dei Benci 33r) is sports bar where you can keep up on the latest American football or basketball games, but you can also find Italians there watching the latest Fiorentina game. They serve decent hamburgers and snack foods and on Wednesdays have wing night and margarita specials (and yes, they have ranch dressing). You can get a student discount card that gives you happy hour prices on drinks at all times as well as a ten percent discount on food. Nearby, The Diner (Via dell’Acqua 2r) serves an excellent American breakfast with American coffee. You can also get a student discount card here that is good for ten percent off.