11 June 2010

Santa Maria del Carmine

Florence, has many wonderful chruches. The Church of Santa Maria del Carmine is one of the domed churches on the Oltrarno side of the city. The church is well-known for its Brancacci chapel, with important frescos by the artist Masaccio. Work began on the chapel in 1386 by the artist Masolino da Panicale, who was the artist actually commissioned to paint the chapel. It was his young apprentice Masaccio, who would eventually go on to make quite a name for himself regarding Renaissance artwork, who actually did most of the work. Famous Florentine painter Filippino Lippi also worked on some of the frescos here. These paintings were so important that Michelangelo himself came to this church as a young boy, as did many artists of the time, to study Masaccio’s use of perspective and light. Particular paintings from this fresco, such as The Tribute Money, are frequently studied in general art history classes.



The church itself has a long and interesting history. The church was built in 1268 as part of a convent of the Carmelite order. The convent is still standing today. The original Romanesque-Gothic façade has fallen off, leaving a rough exterior. The complex itself was later done by Brunelleschi in an enlargement of the complex. There is also the Corsini chapel in the church, a chapel that was built by one of Florence’s richest family of the 17th and 18th centuries. The complex has suffered from a number of disasters, including huge fires and devastating floods, but thanks to some good restorations and a little bit of luck much of the great artwork here has been preserved. Entrance to the church is only 4€ and is well worth the visit.


The church is in the Oltrarno part of Florence, which is the more residential section of Florence a bit further from the hustle and bustle of the center of the city around Piazza della Repubblica and the Duomo. The Oltrarno is full of quirky shops, art galleries and artisans workshops. Strolling around the streets of the Oltrarno and poking into random shops is a fun afternoon activity. There are also lots of great places to eat around the church. Trattoria del Carmine, in the Piazza del Carmine (at number 18 red), is an authentic Italian dining experience serving delicious traditional food. The restaurant is an excellent place to try bistecca alla Fiorentina, as it is well-prepared here and relatively modestly priced.